My PC doesn't recognise the format of this vid, the embed link doesn't appear to have the whole URL either?

Gaz

GazInOz 212 days ago

Strange. It appears fine on mine. Anyone else having an issue? if so, here is the YouTube link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqX9FRuknTY

rich 212 days ago

worked fine on mine mate

Oh by the way...........  was that glue a tad toxic???  what was all that talk of sheltering from the rain HAHAHA

top job though

StuMak 212 days ago

I don't think the glue was as toxic as it is a hallucinogenic. 

"We could hide under here to get some shelter."  "If we are ants." Giggle, giggle

How much of that glue did you use on rails versus how much did you sniff?

Mark 212 days ago

I like to imagine if you can find shelter from the rain under your rails, that means you are really making progress.  Is that weird?

rich 212 days ago

erm....................... No Rich I'm sure thats perfectly normal !!!

Kinda get what you mean though, if they are nice and tight and progress up and over the curvature of the rib ends i can see the shelter idea, especially if you are an Ant and can fit inside

StuMak 212 days ago

Thanks for the youtube link.

That method is surely much quicker, but it must sacrifice a lot of strength? Just a dab of glue on ribs and no glue between each strip?

Gaz

GazInOz 212 days ago

The idea behind "gap & fill" is to capitalize on the "strut effect". In enginering, adding a vertical tie, or member, can actually add more strength & stiffness, pound for pound, than when it is absent. It's similar to the effect in a corugated steel roofing panel. Those waves in the steel make the panel much stiffer (able to support more weight thus stronger) than if it were just flat. In the case of an HWS, those gaps, when filled with wood dough (epoxy and fiberous sawdust) and cured, act as integrated struts. This is the key concept in the "Strip & Strut" (I know) option. As for the dabs of glue, their only real function is to hold everything in place until the real adhesive (the epoxy) is applied. The epoxy gets in betwen all the little gaps too, so in the end, every gap becomes a strut. My belief is, this is much stronger than just wood. It is using the epoxy bond as an integrated matrix of struts (same principle behind epoxy saturated glass fabric and plywood for that matter). Make sense?

In the "Strip & Strut" idea, I (intend to) bring this concept even one step further. The idea is to purposefully create nice even 2-3mm gaps (just like when laying ceramic bathroom tiles). To keep the gaps uniform, I intend to glue in wooden struts (like popsicle sticks) at strateginc points in between the bottom and deck strips (no longer gluing them up as a panel before hand now). In this method, 4' wide planks are replaced by much narrower strips. The bottom and deck are laid down as a series of strips with the "popsicle struts" not only keepping the gaps uniform, but extending up from the bottom, awaiting the deck, and then get glued in betwen the deck strips as well. The result are a series of integrated struts or "structural ties" between the bottom and top. These ties will resist compression, tension, and torgue, there fore adding a lot of strength. The also make the gaps wide enough to be functional and nice and even. Once filled with wood dough the lines should look nice and woody, like lots of little stringer lines.

Sorry this is so long. I'll copy paste this idea into the "Blundell Method Variants" Page as well.

rich 211 days ago

Something like this:

rich 211 days ago

still trying to comprehend this... i'm always interested in method involving less tools ( i have very few). are there any pictures of the finished product? How does the wood dough/epoxy look with the wood. In the very beginning of the video, the nose or tail (not sure?) looked pretty "ghetto." a big attraction to the bead and cove method is the aesthetic value...

dave 204 days ago

Since the B/C method has proven strong enough and the narrow strips and epoxy should be stronger or atleast as strong will the vertical struts allow you to go thinner on the frame ?  Also on the rail strips, are they touching at all?  I know in stich&glue kayaks many sites recomend putting spacers in so there is no wood on wood contact in the joint to be filled.  I can't remember but it may have had something to do with more evenly spreading the load of the joint out, which may not apply as much here since stitch&glue boats have very minimal frames.

Scott Howell 203 days ago

Hi Rich, weuse vertical struts placed strategically in order to resist internal pressure by tying frame junctions together, a slightly differnt application than yours, but I find yours very interesting. Your structural epoxy  struts are a good idea too.

Roy Stewart 190 days ago